Tipsy Time in Oregon Willamette Valley (Part II)
/This article is a continuation from Tipsy Time in Oregon Willamette Valley (Part I), re-uploading Part II due to technical issues with the original one.
Kelley Fox
Kelley Fox
Kelley just moved to her new “home” when we met her, we were a few minutes late for our appointment yet she kept apologizing for the “messy house”. She is extraordinarily personal and genuine, and I guess her personality also affects her winemaking philosophy and wines. Kelley Fox Wine is known for its “natural purity”, Kelley loves talking about how her wines are not “made” at all, and that she simply plays a role in responding to the essence of the fruit from each vineyard, carrying the characteristics of the earth, the vintage, the weather. With a strict biodynamic mindset, Kelley doesn't use any commercial yeasts or other enhancements, she picks on biodynamically-favorable dates and sticks to the moon calendar. In addition, I don't know how she does it, but she performs all the work personally- canopy management, picking, stir, top barrels, bottling, everything by herself, and you wouldn't doubt it when she says “my wines are deeply loved, they are living things”. This is what separates her from the rest and it’s amazing to see how she maintains a coexistence between herself and her vineyards. Many people would argue that “natural wine” or “biodynamic” is just an “IT” term, we do see a lot of winemakers just talk to talk, but to Kelley, it is more of a mindset, and how one chooses to live her life.
2016 Momtazi Vineyard "Tir"
In the glass, it is relatively deep ruby, thick and weighty. Tons of exotic spices and berry fruits on the nose, a sappy texture on the tongue, with beautiful minerality lingering on. I love how Kelley describes it - “shimmering wine is as elusive as the wind or the night”.
2016 Maresh Vineyard Star of Bethlehem Flower blocks
When I read this label I thought “This must be a special bottle for her”, as expected Kelley shared the stories of how she noticed these shining white flowers called “star of Bethlehem” in the vine rows and also underlined that she has never seen these flowers anywhere else. The wine is beautiful medium ruby in color, fresh berry fruit on the nose with a touch of saltiness, light in body yet carries layers of acidity, and a long aftertaste lifted by a floral note.
2016 Maresh Vineyard Red Barn blocks
Another impressive Pinot! Youthful, delightful fresh fruit aromas jumping out of the glass, makes one feeling like walking in a strawberry field, some wood, eucalyptus, Asian spice flavors on the palate, perfumed with hints of dewy roses. It offers quite a pleasant drinking experience!
The Eyrie Vineyards
At the Eyrie tasting room located in the town of McMinville, I heard about the earliest timestamp of this entire trip - Eyrie was established back in 1965 by David Lett. Since the planting of the first vine, Eyrie has farmed deep. They have never used herbicides, pesticides, tillage or irrigation. On the winemaking, the cellar ecosystem is an important contributor. Fermentations proceed with the use of native yeast, naturally and slowly. Full natural malolactic is incorporated to promote the most complex expression of the varieties.
It was honorable to hear about the story of Oregon Pinot Noir pioneer, especially Eryie’s commitment to the land from such an early stage while sipping over the full line-up of Eyrie’s current work, as well as a rare library reserve bottle of the vintage 1998. This quote fully represents Eyrie - “If an alien asked me: ‘What can Americans achieve?’ I’d sit him down with a glass of Eyrie Pinot and a copy of As I Lay Dying.” — John Atkinson, Master of Wine
The Eyrie Vineyards Willamette Valley Estate Grown Pinot Noir 1998
I’ve never tried a well preserved old bottle of Oregon Pinot, and this one totally blew me away. Beautiful nose of dried red cherries, game savoriness, and forest floor; the palate is concentrated, with ethereal mouthfeel, followed by an everlasting length of profound earthiness. A perfect bottle of aged Oregon Pinot Noir and it is nowhere near decay.
Brooks
Brooks, one of the most renowned names in Oregon, spearheading in the Oregonian style Riesling, they seek to show the true reflection of terroir with organic and biodynamic farming. “It’s the one thing I like to drink no matter how I feel. There’s always a Riesling for the mood and making it is really fun. ” says the winemaker Chris Williams and it definitely relates, especially when they offer more than a dozen expressions of Rieslings here, with most of them single-vineyard bottles. Aside from Riesling, they also craft uncompromising quality Pinot Noirs, and an array of aromatic whites including Viognier, Melon blanc, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Muscat, and so on.
Brooks Vineyard
We booked their “Ouroboros Experience”, which is a 2 hour tasting of their small production single vineyard and library wines, with chef prepared charcuterie, cheese and other provisions to match the wine selections. Sitting at the spacious and chic tasting room overlooking the vineyard, sipping 12 completely different in style wines, with picturesque settings, this is the kind of afternoon I wish to have everyday!
2015 Rastaban Pinot Noir - Blackberry gastrique, roasted hazelnut, kirsche, fresh oregano on the bouquet; Earl grey tea, umeboshi plum, Herbes de Provence on the palate. Layered and textural old wine complexity, showcasing velveteen tannins with lively acidity and a long earthy finish. Beginning to open and evolve, but will reward with extended cellaring.
2015 Janus Pinot Noir - Bright cherry compote, nutmeg and sage on the nose; Fresh pomegranate, chocolate macaroon, ancho chili and lavender on the palate. Prominent red fruit, spice and earth components supported by bold acidity, firm tannins, and a round, floral finish. Enjoy now and years to come!
Where to eat?
Lunch
Whether you are on a tight schedule and just want to grab a quick salad, or in the mood of sitting down outside and relaxing with pastries and good coffee - this is the place for you! The South Store Cafe has been around since the 1900s and it is in a over 100 years clapboard building. Their menu is locally inspired - fresh-baked pastries, homemade soup, and daily special sandwiches. My recommendations? South Store Club sandwich, Cream Brulee Brioche, Passion Fruit Danish, Mexican Mocha. But really, I believe it to be one of those places that everything from the menu is delicious!
Dinner
Fine Dining
One privilege living in New York City is having access to all world-class fine dining restaurants, and trust me, I am spoiled by all the talented chefs here and have an extremely high standard, after all, I hate spending $$$$ to just get an average meal and service. So when I tell people the Painted Lady is truly outstanding, you see what I mean.
Atmosphere - It is a tiny charming restaurant in a Victorian-style house, intimate, quaint and cozy. When you walk into it and are around by the antique mirrors and elegant chandeliers, it immediately feels like back to the romantic old times. Food - only one tasting menu includes 8 courses plus canapes and finger desserts. Chef Allen Routt is passionate about bringing his varied influences to traditional American dishes using modern techniques and delivers meals that are prepared using fresh and balancing ingredients that always highlight their natural flavors. Wine - Their wine pairing is truly extraordinary and creates a delightful dining experience. It is a sophisticated and carefully selected collection, ranging from a Sicily Garganega pairing with black cod, to a Lessona Riserva pairing with dry-aged N.Y. Strip, to a 1991 tawny port pairing with classic chocolate almond cake. The combined flavors balance in the mouth and the wines really served their purpose enhancing the culinary adventure.
To me, it is more than just a restaurant, it’s a lifetime experience to remember.
Casual eats
Red Hills Market
This is one of those “must - visits” that everyone will tell you about. They serve up simple seasonal dishes that both locals and visitors fall in love with. It’s a destination spot for a day in wine country where you can start your day off with espresso and pastries, (or wines), or finish a day with their wood-fired pizzas, roasted local filberts with Carlton Farms bacon & rosemary from their garden. A wonderful stop with great food and great vibes!
Dundee Bistro
Dundee Bistro was recommended by my Airbnb host when I asked her what’s the locals’ favorite dinner place in town. It has been there since 1999, and always trying to source fresh ingredients from the local farms and ranches. Casual, friendly atmosphere with various food options and an extensive wine list. I’d recommend the Draper Valley Chicken with chanterelles and zucchini, and their Linguine & prawns.
Where to stay?
Aloft Hillsboro-Beaverton
If you have spent your whole day tastings and flying out the next day from Portland, this might be a perfect hotel. About 30 minutes drive from the wineries and 20 minutes to the city, a great middle spot. Minimalistic and chic design, an eco-conscious approach, a hip new hotel with very comfortable sleeping accommodations, and super friendly staff.
Kimpton Hotel Monaco Portland
If you love a convenient location and a vintage style, this would be your perfect sanctuary. The delightful atmosphere with a fun and evocative color palette, cozy room with a huge bathroom, and living room - just what you need to wash away all the stress and tiredness from the trip. Happy hour every day with live music, easy reach of many attractions including my favorite Powell’s Books and, Voodoo Doughnut! (The only downside is the $42/night valet parking, but there are plenty of garages nearby)
Allison Inn and Spa
We were not able to get in - so lesson learned, book early! But from what we read and heard, this luxury resort is everything you need for an intense wine trip. The rooms come with gas fireplaces, spacious balcony, spa-like bathrooms, and seems like a peaceful destination to get away from busy day-to-day.
If you want to get closer to local life, I would also highly recommend Airbnbs and B&Bs. Tons of beautiful and cozy places blocks away from wineries, restaurants, coffee, etc. Waking up with a farm view of chickens, sheep, dogs, and a cup of freshly made coffee,
Last words
The trip was distinctively memorable - escaping from a commercialized tour in a palatial winery, but chit-chatting with the winemaker instead; tasting handcrafted artisan wine rather than mass production bottle; pairing food farm to table rather than stressfully operating on the fine dining dish. It is a place untouched by a giant conglomerate, home to hard-working craftsmen that are devoted to wine, not business. Oregon wine conveys a sense of serenity, urging you to get out of your comfort zone of Cabernet, take a sip full of Oregonian delicacy and enjoy the sunny wine country.
The Oregon Pinot is constantly compared to the best - Burgundy. As a big Burgundy drinker, I’d argue that Oregon Pinot can easily compete with many Premier Cru class on a few aspects. Although it is a long way to strive for improvement and innovation in order to match with the very best, Oregon Pinot is already distinct in style, offering various uniqueness - for me, brightness and vivid fruit concentration, balanced with long acids and earthy tone - for serious wine lovers to chase. I’m certainly planning on building up inventory in my cellar with a few of my favorites from this trip.
Lastly, a special thank you to the Tualatin Valley for helping me with the itinerary and sharing recommendations and tips, as well as bringing Oregon wines to more people’s attention. I hope you get a chance to visit and soak in the Willamette Valley experience and share your point of view with me!