The Wine Lover's Guide to Porto & Vinho Verde
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Porto
Does time go faster in Portugal? It feels like I just landed in Porto yesterday but now I’m already sitting in front of my laptop at home writing this blog, with a cup of drip coffee (where is my Espresso?!). A week in Porto & Vinho Verde felt like a dream, and today I'm going to share the top reasons why it should be YOUR next destination. Paradise called, time to visit!
The Logistics
It’s super easy to get there. A 6-hour flight gets you to Porto from NYC. If you purchase the tickets early enough they are likely to be under $400 (seriously, I paid more to fly to Charleston...). As far as COVID, while the rules keep changing, as of right now, all you need is a negative test taken within the last 72h before you flight or a negative antigen test within 48h, as well as to fill out a passenger location form before you hop on the plane. I bought the eMed at-home self testing kit, essentially an online platform where you are guided through the process with a healthcare professional. The results is emailed to you in .pdf format. In my experience, all airlines and hotels take it. Some hotels also accept the vaccination card, make sure to bring it with you if you have one.
Porto
Porto, Portugal
Where we stayed
We stayed at Sheraton Porto Hotel & Spa. Super clean, rooms are spacious (especially in Europe) and comfortable. Due to COVID, you can order room service breakfast with no additional charge. Keep in mind this hotel isn’t very central, but it’s well connected. Since Porto is not a huge city, it’s easy to take an Uber to the Douro river area for under 10 Euros. If you prefer to stay closer to the river, I highly recommend Airbnb - so many cute homes with amazing views. Most restaurants and bars are within a 10min walk.
Where we tasted
We started the trip at the Casa do Vinho Verde and did a tasting in their stunning back gardens overlooking the Douro River. It is the headquarter of the Vinho Verde Region Viticulture Commission established in the mid-1940s. The architecture and decorations are gorgeous - highly recommend booking a tasting here!
Where we ate
Taberninha do Manel
Some restaurants have good food, some are affordable, some have a nice view...This place checks all the boxes! This is THE spot to nibble good tapas, drink a good glass of wine and hang out with friends..with river views!! Be sure to make a reservation to avoid lines! Oh and please, please try their clams - you’ll thank me later!
BB Gourmet
A great local place if you want to eat in peace with no traffic and noisy tourists. Definitely save room for dessert!
Vinho Verde
Where we tasted
Quinta da Aveleda
For about an hour drive from Porto, you will find Quinta da Aveleda. Surrounded by gorgeous details - a piece of ancient times, an evasion of the senses...This is how you feel at Quinta da Aveleda. When entering this property, you travel through the history of a visionary family and contemplate nature sculpted with passion. You can get lost in their gardens and even meet dwarf goats or peacocks there! Needless to say, the wines are also fantastic. They have several wine experiences available. I highly recommend budget at least half-day here - perhaps have a picnic lunch next to the vineyards!
Quinta de Santa Cristina
Another 1-hour drive will get you to Quinta de Santa Cristina. If you’re looking for small-town vibes, picturesque views of the mountains, stunning vineyards, delicious wines, knowledgeable hosts - make sure you visit Quinta de Santa Cristina. Sampling the wines with local nibbles really hit the spot!
Quinta das Arcas
Quinta das Arcas was founded in the early eighties by Esteves Monteiro. Throughout the years, they have always been paying special attention to vineyards with minimal intervention. In 2012 they made their first certified biodynamic wine. They have a “Jeep Tour” that takes you through their vineyards, the views from the top hills are breathtaking!
Quinta de Soalheiro
Prepare to enjoy some delicious wines while calming yourself with undulating views of Vinho Verde! Soalheiro is based in Melgaço - Portugal's northernmost point which forms the border with Spain, and specializes in Alvarinho. The word ‘Soalheiro’ is derived from the vineyards exposed to the sun throughout the year, bearing a name – a sunny place. The region is protected by a range of mountains that create the conditions necessary for the best ripening of Alvarinho.
We tried 10+ wines and the variation of expressions is beyond impressive, with utterly different styles and complexities. Even better, they served traditional smoked meat and sausages as well as vegetables to pair with the wines - yum!
For more about wines from Vinho Verde, check out “Everything You Need To Know About Vinho Verde“
Where we stayed
Monverde Wine Experience Hotel
Monverde Wine Experience Hotel
Monverde Hotel was opened in 2015 and was the region’s first designated wine hotel. It combines the beauty of the landscape, contemporary cuisines, enchanting pool that overlooks the vineyards, various wine experiences including being a winemaker for a day...there is no lack of space to explore! The rooms are SO spacious and unpretentious. Every single detail makes you feel calm.
It also has a winery here - Quinta Da Lixa, owned and operated by the Meireles family since the mid-1980s. The winemaker, Carlos Teixeira is dedicated to making wines that express the exceptional terroir, at an impeachable level of quality for the very modest price point. Besides the traditional styles, he has some interesting projects, including age-worthy single varietal Whites, and a fantastic Pet-Nat!
They have several wine experiences here - vineyard visits, wine tastings, even hand-harvest! My favorite was the “Be a winemaker for a day”. The journey started with their sensory room where we got to smell the most common aromas of the Vinho Verde wines. We then tasted through each grape varietal while learning about their profiles - Alvarinho, Arinto, Avesso, Loureiro, Trajadura. Next - measure and sample to fit our own personal style - and blend! After some serious (fun) tasting my final blend was 50% Alvarinho - for structure and some aging potential, 30% Loureiro - for some floral notes and delicacy, 20% Trajadura - for some ripe fruit and velvety aftertaste. The journey doesn't end here - we also got to bottle our own wine with the traditional tools and created our own label! It was SUCH a unique and fantastic experience!
We stayed for two nights, had dinner at their restaurant on both nights. The restaurant is scrumptious - even better pairing with the Vinho Verde wines!
Vinho Verde is such a magical region that definitely worth a closer look. But even if you don't have much time you can still just take a day tour from Porto and visit a couple of wineries. There is a Vinho Verde for every moment.