Burgundy Bliss: Sipping Wines, Savoring Cuisine, and Pedaling Through Vineyards
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Pedaling Through the Vineyards in burgundy
The French wine region of Burgundy (aka “Bourgogne”) may be small in size, but the wines are among the most sought-after on the market. Burgundy wines have long had devout followers throughout the world and continue to do so today. It is undeniably one of the greatest, if not THE greatest, destinations for finding bottles to lay down and age.
For wine enthusiasts, Burgundy is a dream destination - sipping the way through charming villages and scenic French vineyards, a scene filled with fairytale castles, charming little streets, and lots of delicious food and wine. However, Burgundy may be intimidating to navigate compared to Napa or Bordeaux. It can be challenging to book a tasting, and many of Burgundy’s domains are small family operations with limited production. Therefore, advance planning is necessary when visiting Burgundy.
Ok, ready to narrow down the Bourgogne bucket list?
Tastings
Domaine Trapet: Domaine Trapet stands for Pinot Noir from Gevrey-Chambertin. Jean-Louis Trapet is really something else, I could still remember every single second of our conversation. He would rather talk about the philosophy of wine than the detail of winemaking - "Wine is one of the most civilized things in existence. In my capacity as a wine grower, the path of gentleness and respect enables me to make my way towards the highest degree of expression of my soils.” Among the pioneers of natural viticulture in the region, Jean-Louis Trapet continues to lead the way in biodynamic farming. I truly admire his connection with his vines, his passion, and his simplicity. For him, the expression of the site is everything. The terroir and its interpretation in the wine are clearly recognizable - the wines are made with an emphasis on elegance, purity, and finesse.
Domaine Faiveley: Domaine Faiveley is one of the most admired and illustrious wine producers in Burgundy. The Faiveley family has a long history in winemaking and has run the Domaine for almost two centuries. It has gradually acquired 120 hectares of vineyards located in some of the most prestigious climats of the Côte de Nuits, Côte de Beaune, and Côte Chalonnaise. 12 Grands Crus and 25 Premiers Crus, many of which are "monopoles". Traditional winemaking with a modern twist is key in the production of wines from Domaine Faiveley. In their own words - "Our objective is to enhance these exceptional Burgundian terroirs through a style that combines strength, finesse, and elegance." Highly recommended their "Grands Climats" tasting.
Chandon de Briailles: Chandon de Briailles is a wine producer in the north of the Côte de Beaune in Burgundy. Owned by the de Nicolay family since 1834, It is one of the prettiest domains in Burgundy and their wines are truly gems. They are not quite like any other Burgundy, when destemming, extraction, and new oak was the fashion, they were bottling all of their wines with 100% whole clusters and no new oak. Under the brother and sister team - Claude and François, the estate converted entirely to biodynamic in 2011 and they create elegant, terroir-driven wines from appellations including Savigny-lès-Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses, and Aloxe-Corton. This domain is quickly becoming one of the very finest here, these appellations are often associated with wines that display a somewhat rustic, unpolished style but with their philosophy, care, and skills, their wines are pure, natural, delicious, and age-worthy.
If you don’t have time to research and book ahead of time, keep an eye out for “Dégustation” signs (e.g. Joseph Drouhin, Louis Jadot, Bouchard Père et Fils), which means wine tastings and potential sales are available. Or stop by the friendly tourist offices and ask for a map as well as info on which wineries are open for drop-in tastings.
Restaurants
With thirst now satiated, it’s time to eat! In addition to the delicious vino, delectable food is also essential for a wine vacation, am I right? While Paris may be the rockstar for restaurants with mind-bending marathon dinners, Burgundy has some fantastic eateries too.
In Beaune, Ma Cuisine in the city center is a must-visit for anyone looking for a hearty meal. It is a popular spot among locals and tourists alike, and for a good reason - the food is simply delicious. The menu features classic Burgundian dishes, such as escargots, coq au vin, and of course, the famous beef bourguignon. The bistro has a cozy and rustic atmosphere. The wine list is extensive and features many local wines, including some rare and hard-to-find bottles. It offers a true taste of the region.
Les Popiettes, Bistro des Cocottes, and Au Vieux Millesime are other bistros that we visited in the region, all of which offered delicious and affordable meals. A 3-course lunch at Les Popiettes was less than $25.
For those who prefer an elevated dining experience, William Frachot - a two-Michelin-starred restaurant located in the heart of Dijon, is the perfect spot. The chef tells his story through his signature dishes, and the wine list is impressive, including many affordable bottles that are usually expensive in the US. The restaurant's distinctive interior, spacious setting, and traditional top-notch service with a touch of humor make for a delightful dining experience.
Last but not least
This might be my biased advice, but if you haven't done Burgundy by bike, I don't think you’ve done Burgundy. To immerse yourself in a 100% Burgundy vineyard experience there’s no better way than to ditch the car and get on your bike! Not only is it better for you (and the environment!) but you get to see and experience so much more than you would be sitting in a car. There is truly nothing like peddling through the vineyards. You’ll bond with the landscape at the essence of Burgundy’s revered vintages and its very soul. We only biked from Pommard to Volnay to Meursault, but if I had more time, I would have definitely gone further north to explore more! Well, there’s always next time!