Sicily En Primeur: A Journey Through Wine, Tradition, and Innovation
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As the wheels touched down in Palermo, a sense of familiarity and excitement washed over me. Sicily, with its ancient vineyards and timeless landscapes, beckoned me once again. This time, my itinerary promised to unveil the essence of Sicilian winemaking, from the sun-kissed fields of Menfi to the storied terroir of Agrigento. But before diving into the heart of Sicily's wine country, I couldn't resist a detour to the coastal gem of Cefalù. Nestled along the island's northern shores, Cefalù is a picturesque town blending medieval charm with coastal beauty. Its historic streets lead to landmarks like the Cathedral of Cefalù, while golden beaches offer relaxation and water sports. Explore vibrant markets and seaside eateries for a taste of Sicilian cuisine. And as the sun sets, Cefalù's enchanting ambiance casts a spell that lingers, making it an essential stop on any Sicilian journey.
Sicily Winemaking: A Glimpse into Tradition
Sicily, Italy's southernmost wine region and the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea, has been a significant center of Mediterranean viniculture for over 2500 years. Its diverse terroir, ranging from volcanic soils to coastal plains, offers a canvas for various grape varieties. Key grape varieties include Grillo, Nero d’Avola, Catarratto, Carricante, Nerello Mascalese, and Frappato, along with international grapes such as Syrah, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Franc. Thanks to the warm, dry climate, mildews and rots are minimal, particularly in well-ventilated areas benefiting from coastal breezes. This low disease pressure fosters organic grape production, making chemical sprays unnecessary for much of Sicilian wine production.
Sicily En Primeur & The 2023 Vintage
Sicily En Primeur, created by Assovini in 2004, is an annual event featuring tastings, tours, masterclasses, and conferences, showcasing Sicilian wine producers and members of "Assovini Sicilia" alongside national and international press. Over the years, this event has become a cornerstone for promoting Sicilian wine and culture worldwide, focusing on enhancing the region's brand through its rich history and wine production. In 2024, Sicily En Primeur marks a milestone: 25 years since the founding of Assovini Sicilia and two decades since its inaugural edition. Under the theme "Cultivating the Future," this year's event reflects on Sicily's journey while charting a course for the years ahead. As Mariangela Cambria, President of Assovini Sicilia, aptly puts it, "Cultivating the Future retraces the most significant stages of Assovini Sicilia, projecting itself towards the future.
The 2023 grape harvest in Sicily embodied the "Less is More" ethos, emphasizing essence, cleanliness, clarity, and definition in the wines. Despite climatic challenges, Sicilian producers showcased their expertise, focusing on varietal richness and terroir diversity. Notably, Sicily's reputation for the longest grape harvest in Italy endured, spanning a hundred days from the western reaches of the island to the volcanic slopes of Mount Etna. White wines emerged as a driving force in Sicily's export market, with notable increases in key regions like the United States, Canada, and Germany.
Emerging Trends to Watch
1. While red wines from Sicily, especially from the Etna region, have historically garnered attention, the spotlight is shifting towards Sicily's white wines. Grillo, the most planted grape in Sicily, offers bright acidity and versatile characteristics suitable for various dishes.
2. The focus on indigenous grapes persists, but Sicilian winemakers are also experimenting with international varieties like Syrah and Chardonnay, producing exciting expressions that captivate palates worldwide. Syrah has been brought here from its home in southern France, where hot summer sunshine and sandy, rocky soils are also key components of the terroir. The robust red Rhône Valley variety shows every sign of adapting well to the Sicilian heat, ripe fruits, but also elegant and fresh with a peppery edge. I’ve also enjoyed some intriguing Chardonnays from Planeta and Mandrarossa. Additionally, Serra Fernandea offers a fascinating blend of Grillo and Sauvignon Blanc.
3. Sustainability remains a core focus, with initiatives like SOStain promoting environmental and social responsibility within the Sicilian wine industry. The growth of SOStain since its foundation in 2020 continues to be a success story. Now with 39 member companies and almost 33,000ha of associated vineyard area, the organization is pushing for greater environmental and social sustainability within Sicily’s wine industry. One SOStain initiative that is gaining significant traction involves the production of lightweight bottles, made of approximately 95% recycled glass, entirely within Sicily.
4. Wine tourism emerges as a vital tool for promoting Sicilian culture, offering visitors an immersive experience that encompasses wine, gastronomy, nature, and relaxation. Assovini Sicilia aims to support its members' accommodation capacity and wine tourism efforts, highlighting the synergy between wine and tourism in showcasing Sicily's rich heritage. It was limited to tastings in the past, but now they aim for something more diversified and unique. Hospitality is a complete way to promote the Sicily of wine, from small to large wineries.
5. The Next Generation: A notable trend observed during Sicily En Primeur is the involvement of young people in the wine industry. With around 78% of companies integrating a new under-40 generation into their management, generational succession is driving digital transformation and innovation within Sicilian wineries. This year, one of the Assovini focuses is “The Next Generation”. Many of these individuals are continuing their family’s work, taking the baton from their parents and grandparents. This transition ensures the preservation of legacy while fostering dynamism and adaptability in the ever-evolving wine sector.
