A Culinary and Wine Journey Through Bilbao, San Sebastián, and Rioja
/
My recent travels through Bilbao, San Sebastián, and Rioja were nothing short of unforgettable. From world-class wines to mouthwatering Basque cuisine, I experienced some of the best food and drinks this region has to offer. Whether you're a foodie, a wine lover, or someone who loves discovering hidden gems, this trip is for you. Here's a breakdown of my journey and the must-visit spots for eating and drinking along the way.
Day 1: Arriving in Bilbao & Heading to San Sebastián
After flying into Bilbao, we rented a car to explore nearby towns and vineyards, especially in Rioja. If you plan to stay within the city, you can easily get by without one.
First Stop: Kaia Kaipe
Our first stop was Kaia Kaipe, a classic seafood restaurant opened by the Arregi family in 1962. Nestled by the Getaria port, the views were spectacular! "Kaia" means "port" in Basque, while "Kaipe" translates to "below the port"—a fitting name for this iconic spot. We started with clams and langoustines, both incredibly fresh, but the highlight was the wild mushrooms seared in garlic olive oil, topped with fresh egg yolk—simply perfect! Paired with Cedric Bouchard UR/R19 - with uplifting flavors and a complex finish, and Domaine Ramonet Les Ruchottes - added richness and depth to the grilled turbot and mushrooms. Every bite and sip felt perfectly harmonious.
Where to Stay: We stayed at Arima Hotel & Spa—cozy, relaxing, and highly recommended. It provided the perfect balance of comfort and style, making it an ideal base for exploring this incredible region.
Day 2: Exploring the Heart of Basque Cuisine
Lunch at Casa Julián
Our day began with an unforgettable lunch at Casa Julián, a Basque steakhouse founded in 1954. Known worldwide for its grilled meats, the rustic, unpretentious vibe paired with the authentic food made for an incredible experience. The steak was phenomenal—juicy, tender, and perfectly grilled. We paired it with Finca Allende Calvario, a wine that balanced power and elegance with remarkable structure and harmony.
Dinner at Akelarre
In the evening, we dined at Akelarre, the iconic three-star Michelin restaurant in San Sebastián. Set inside the Akelarre Hotel, it offers breathtaking ocean views, stunning service, and an equally impressive dining room. While the food leaned more toward playful than flavorful for my taste, the setting and atmosphere elevated the experience.
Day 3: A Taste of San Sebastián’s Culinary Scene
Txispa: A Hidden Gem
This might just be my favorite meal in San Sebastián! Txispa, led by chef Tetsuro Maeda, masterfully blends Japanese cuisine with Basque flavors in a truly unique way. Set in a century-old farmhouse with stunning mountain views, the restaurant even grows many of its own ingredients. Every dish was perfectly executed—from appetizers prepared in the open kitchen to a beautifully curated meal in the cozy, six-table dining room. It was truly a one-of-a-kind dining experience. We spotted a 1958 Château Gruaud-Larose on their wine list at a very reasonable price. The sommelier mentioned it came from a private collector and hadn’t changed hands many times. Our curiosity got the best of us, and we had to order it. After 56 years, the fruit had understandably faded, but the dry leaves, herbs, forest floor, and leather notes were still present, and the structure held up nicely. Definitely an interesting wine to try—and a great pairing with the food.
Rekondo Restaurant
For a legendary wine experience, head to Rekondo, a hilltop restaurant with an extraordinary wine cellar. Since 1964, Rekondo has been home to one of the world’s most impressive wine collections, boasting nearly 100 vintages of Vega Sicilia Único alone. We had the pleasure of tasting the 1981 Único, which was absolutely glorious—youthful, expressive, and brimming with vibrant energy despite its age. It was the perfect pairing for a truly memorable meal. If you visit when the weather is nice, be sure to sit outside—the view from the top is stunning and makes the experience even more special. A must-visit for wine lovers in San Sebastián!
Day 4: Rioja’s Vineyards and Cozy Dining
We left San Sebastián and made our way to Rioja, stopping at some of our favorite producers—Finca Allende, Contador, and Abel Mendoza. Each visit offered an intimate look into the heart and soul of Rioja winemaking.
Finca Allende
Finca Allende, founded in 1986 by Miguel Ángel de Gregorio, is located in an ancient 17th-century manor set in a medieval town square in the heart of Rioja Alta. Considered Spain’s first terroirist, Miguel Ángel’s sincere dedication to natural farming and preserving the integrity of Rioja Alta has made him one of the region’s most celebrated winemakers and a mastermind in crafting world-class estate-grown wines. During our visit to their winery, we had the privilege of learning about their philosophy—a harmonious blend of respect for the land and a relentless pursuit of perfection in winemaking. This philosophy drives Allende to continually push the boundaries of creating the perfect Rioja, resulting in wines with exceptional body and structure that epitomize the excellence of the region.
Abel Mendoza
This winery holds a special place in my heart. Since 1988, Abel Mendoza and Maite Fernandez—a husband-and-wife duo—have redefined winemaking in Rioja. They embody the spirit of true vignerons, not just in Rioja but in all of Spain. This was our second visit, the first being three years ago, and it felt just as magical. Despite the chaos of harvest, Abel and Maite welcomed us with warmth and generosity. They don’t have a website, they don’t do marketing—their wines simply speak for themselves. Affordable, approachable, and filled with authenticity. I always get asked, "Why do you love wine so much?" Maite’s answer sums it up perfectly: "When we sell a bottle of wine, we sell a part of our life. The biggest thing in this business is the relationships between people." To people like Abel and Maite, who remind us of the beauty of connection through wine.
Roots Haro & Terete for Drinks and Dinner
For a pre-dinner stop, Roots Haro impressed with its modern atmosphere and stellar wine list, featuring plenty of local gems. Next door, Terete served up an unforgettable meal of Basque flavors. If you’re ever in Haro, this cozy spot is a must-visit, with an incredible wine list including older Rioja vintages. We savored a beautifully aged 1995 Tondonia, decanted as we ate. Nearly 30 years old, it opened up with notes of leather, cured meat, cherries in liqueur, and warm spices. The refined tannins and vibrant acidity paired flawlessly with roasted lamb—slow-cooked in a wood-fired oven to perfection, crispy on the outside, tender and juicy inside. A simple meal of soup, lamb, and dessert, yet one that left us with the best memories.
Day 5: Back to Bilbao
The final day of our trip took us back to Bilbao, where we spent the morning at the iconic Guggenheim Museum, soaking in the fusion of art and architecture. Lunch at Azurmendi felt like stepping into Alice in Wonderland—more than just a meal, it was an experience! From a picnic by a vertical garden to watching the chefs prepare maritime-inspired bites in the kitchen corridor, every moment reflected Eneko Atxa’s vision. We drank two beautiful wines—two classics! Champagne La Closerie – an all-time favorite! Crisp, expressive, and deeply complex, with layers of orchard fruit, toasty brioche, and minerality. Perfect with seafood. Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St-Jacques – another legend. Silky, elegant, and beautifully structured, with red berries, earth, and spice. A dream pairing with the main steak course.
We wrapped up the day at La Ribera Market, picking up local cheeses and seafood, before heading to Casco Viejo for a final night of pintxos and drinks. The perfect sendoff. I always say that wine is about more than just what’s in the glass—it’s about the people, the places, and the memories made along the way. And this trip? One for the books.